The Article by Rehab El-Abd
Design and Review by Dina El-Tawila
The Al-Hakim Mosque is the fourth oldest surviving congregational mosque in Egypt, and the second largest mosque in Cairo after the Mosque of Ahmad Ibn Tulun.
One of the most important historical turning points in the mosque's history
The Al-Hakim Mosque in Cairo witnessed dramatic historical transformations that altered its function from a Fatimid religious and scholarly center to a church, a military barracks, and a museum, culminating in its comprehensive restoration as one of the most important historical mosques.
The mosque has several names, including
Al-Khatba Mosque
Al-Anwar Mosque
Al-Hakim Mosque
The Location
The mosque is located at the end of Al-Muizz Street, adjacent to Bab al-Futuh and the northern city wall in the Al-Gamaliya district of Cairo.
The Historical Significance of the Mosque
1- Al-Hakim Mosque is the fourth oldest surviving congregational mosque in Egypt.
2- It is the second largest mosque in Cairo after the Mosque of Ahmad Ibn Tulun.
3- The mosque represents a rare architectural masterpiece dating back to the Fatimid era.
A Brief History of the Mosque
The Beginning
Its construction was ordered by the fifth Fatimid Caliph, Al-Aziz Billah, in 380 AH / 990 CE, due to the inadequacy of Al-Azhar Mosque for the number of worshippers.
The Inauguration
Al-Aziz Billah died before its completion, so his son, the sixth Caliph, Al-Hakim bi-Amr Allah, finished it and officially inaugurated it in 403 AH / 1013 CE.
Therefore, it was named after him and became known as the Mosque of Al-Hakim.
The Change of Location
(480 AH / 1087 CE)
When it was built, the mosque was located outside the walls of Cairo, which were constructed by Jawhar al-Siqilli. However, when the vizier of Caliph Al-Mustansir Billah, Badr al-Jamali, expanded the city and built new walls, the mosque became located within the boundaries of Cairo, adjacent to Bab al-Futuh (Gate of Conquest)
The Design and Architectural Features
The Al-Hakim Mosque is distinguished by its spacious, rectangular interior, measuring approximately 120.5 meters in length and 113 meters in width.
A large, open courtyard lies at its center, surrounded by four arcades (portables), the deepest of which is the qibla portico.
The arches of the porticoes rest on massive brick pillars with columns integrated into their corners, in the style of the Ibn Tulun Mosque.
The Open Courtyard in the Center
The open courtyard in the Al-Hakim Mosque is the large, central courtyard open to the sky.
It measures approximately 66 meters in length and 38 meters in width. It is surrounded by four arcades or porticoes.
It is located precisely in the center of the mosque and allows light and air to enter the surrounding porticoes.
Its sides are adorned with Fatimid stone panels through which sunlight filters, creating a unique spiritual atmosphere.
The Archaeologists used it in the past as a place to display Islamic artifacts and antiquities before they were moved to the specialized museum. This was the nucleus of the Museum of Islamic Art.
The Mosque's Arcades
The Arcades are roofed architectural spaces, separated by rows of arches, that surround the open courtyard of a mosque.
The arcades of the Al-Hakim Mosque are distinguished by their unique architectural design, reflecting the grandeur of Fatimid architecture.
The General Arcade Layout
The mosque consists of four arcades surrounding a rectangular open courtyard.
The number of rows and width of the arcades vary among the four iwans. The qibla iwan contains five arcades, while each of the side iwans contains three. All the arcades are constructed entirely of brick, and their arches rest on massive piers and piers.
The Qibla Arcade
(The Southeast Arcade)
This is the largest and deepest arcade, consisting of five parallel arcades, each containing 17 stone or brick arches.
The Arcade Opposite the Qibla
(The Northwest Arcade)
This consists of only two arcades, each containing 17 arches.
The Two Side Arcades
(Southwest and Northeast Arcades)
Each consists of three arcades surrounding the courtyard.
The Key Architectural Features of the Arcades
The Constructed Supports
The arches in the arcades do not rest on marble columns as is common in other mosques, but rather on massive rectangular brick (stone) supports. At the corners of each support are embedded (absorbent) columns that increase its strength.
The Pointed Arches
(Pointed arches, resembling horseshoes, are among the earliest examples of this style in Egypt.)
The arches connecting the pillars are called Fatimid arches
The Cross-Sectional Aisle
A wide, vertical passageway, called the "cross-sectional aisle," bisects the qibla portico, extending directly from the courtyard to the mihrab. It is roofed and decorated with exquisite stucco and Kufic motifs, and is surmounted by three domes (one above the mihrab and two at the corners of the qibla wall).
The Ceilings and Decoration
The original ceilings of the arcades were made of teak wood and are characterized by their simplicity. The ends of the walls and the tops of the arches are adorned with inscription bands in Kufic script carved in stucco, containing Quranic verses and the history of the mosque's architecture.
The Projecting Monumental Entrance
The projecting monumental entrance of the Al-Hakim Mosque is the oldest projecting monumental entrance in Islamic architecture in Egypt.
The Fatimids drew inspiration for its design from mosques in North Africa (such as those in Mahdia and Sousse in Tunisia).
It projects approximately 6 meters from the northwest facade, nestled between the two famous minarets.
It is located in the middle of the northwest facade overlooking Al-Muizz Street.
The Projecting about 6 meters from the outer wall, it is approximately 11 meters high and 15.5 meters long.
The entrance passage is covered internally by a cylindrical vault.
The passage terminates in a doorway approximately 2.2 meters wide.
The entrance is adorned on both the right and left sides with intricate carvings, decorations, and distinctive recessed reliefs.
The Exterior Walls
The exterior walls are designed with strength and solidity, resembling the walls of ancient castles and fortresses.
The construction combines red brick with massive stones added later to reinforce the foundations.
The Two Minarets
It features two unique minarets.
The minarets appear to be enclosed within massive, solid, square towers at their bases.
The Location of the Minarets
They are located at the corners of the northwestern facade of the mosque.
The Unique Design
Each minaret consists of a massive square base surmounted by a stepped shaft (the shape of two stepped cubes).
The Details of the Construction and Historical Restoration of the Minarets
The Original Fatimid Construction
(Al-Hakim bi-Amr Allah)
The Fatimid Caliph Al-Hakim bi-Amr Allah ordered the construction of the two minarets at the corners of the mosque in 393 AH.
Several years later, he ordered the construction of the massive pyramidal stone bases
(The Outer Cubic Stone Walls)
surrounding the minarets to conceal and reinforce them.
The Mamluk Restoration
(The Baybars al-Jashankir)
In 1303 CE (702 AH), Egypt was struck by a devastating earthquake that caused the tops of the two minarets to collapse and crack.
The Mamluk prince (later Sultan) Baybars al-Jashankir
Undertook the task of renovating the mosque and reinforcing the minarets. He rebuilt the upper floors and the tops using red brick in the Mamluk style known as the "incense burner" style, which remains to this day.
The Incense Burner Tops
The two minarets are topped with two ribbed tops resembling an incense burner, an architectural addition dating back to the Mamluk renovations following the 702 AH earthquake.
The Decorations
The Al-Hakim Mosque in Cairo is distinguished by its unique inscriptions and decorations, representing an early transitional phase in Fatimid architecture, combining:
The Prominent Kufic Script
The inscriptions in a beautiful, floral Kufic script were displayed beneath the roof and on the minarets.
The intricate Floral and Geometric Motifs
These motifs included grape leaves, palm fronds, and floral forms rendered in an abstract style.
The Beveled Carving
This technique was clearly evident in the early wooden, stucco, and stone elements, reflecting the Fatimid and Tulunid styles and showcasing the splendor of early Islamic art.
The Entrance Decorations
The main entrance is surrounded by intricate stone and floral decorations, some reaching heights of over 1.5 meters.
The Prayers and Texts
The Nature of Inscriptions and Writings in the Mosque
The Quranic Texts
The ancient inscriptions on the facades, minarets, and qibla walls of the Al-Hakim Mosque consist of verses from the Holy Quran, such as verses from Surah Al-A'raf.
The Foundation Texts
These documents the dates of construction and the names of the caliphs who participated in its completion between 380 AH and 403 AH.
The Mosque Windows
The windows of the Fatimid Al-Hakim Mosque are distinguished by a unique architectural design based on precise geometric symmetry.
Each window of the mosque is located directly on the axis of each arch
The Number of Original Windows
- Each side wall contains 16 windows.
- The Qibla Iwan and the opposite wall
Each contains 17 windows.
- The back wall of the Qibla Iwan
Includes two windows to the left of the mihrab, adorned with intricate floral motifs.
The Minarets and the Dome
Each minaret was designed with a window, in addition to small remaining windows in the dome above the mihrab to allow light to pass through.
The Historical Changes
The windows underwent significant changes throughout the ages.
- All the windows in the eastern wall were completely blocked when the vizier Badr al-Jamali built the new Cairo wall adjacent to it.
- The earthquake of 1303 CE also contributed to the destruction of large sections of the iwans and windows before they were later restored.
The Transformations Through History
The Al-Hakim Mosque in Cairo witnessed dramatic historical transformations that altered its function from a Fatimid religious and scholarly center to a church, a military barracks, a museum, and finally, its comprehensive restoration as one of the most important historical mosques.
During the Fatimid Era
(Foundation and Flourishing)
It was a center for teaching Shi'a Islam and served as an auxiliary to Al-Azhar Mosque.
During the Ayyubid and Mamluk Eras
(Setbacks and Restoration)
It Converted into a Synagogue
Part of it was converted into a church in 1167 CE during the Crusader siege of Cairo.
The Mosque Suffered from an Earthquake
It sustained severe damage from the 1303 CE earthquake, which destroyed its minarets.
The Restoration by Prince Baybars al-Jashankir
The Mamluk Prince Baybars al-Jashankir restored the mosque and built stone towers around the two minarets.
In Later Eras
(The Neglect and Military Transformations)
The French Campaign
The French campaign forces of 1798, led by Napoleon Bonaparte, used the mosque as a headquarters and barracks for their soldiers, employing its tall minarets as military observation and defensive towers.
The Neglect
- Parts of it were used as stables for horses and warehouses for merchants during periods of neglect.
- In later periods, the mosque suffered severe neglect, and its open courtyard was transformed for many years into playgrounds for the surrounding schools and warehouses and storage facilities for merchants in the area.
The Modern Era
(The Revival and Comprehensive Restoration)
The First Islamic Museum in Cairo (1881 CE)
The qibla portico of the mosque was used as the first repository for the collection of Islamic artifacts and antiquities, known at the time as the "House of Arab Antiquities," before the collection was later moved to the current Museum of Islamic Art building in Bab al-Khalq.
The Renovation of the Mosque by Sayyid Omar Makram (Early 19th Century)
Sayyid Omar Makram (Naqib al-Ashraf) renovated the arcades of the qibla iwan in 1808 CE (early 19th century, not late 18th century) so that prayers could be held there after a period of neglect and various military uses. He renovated four arcades of the eastern iwan, clad the qibla wall in marble, and erected a minbar for prayer.
The Bohra Community
The mosque was revived and fully restored during the presidency of the late Anwar Sadat by the Bohra community between 1979 and 1981. It was indeed restored through the community's own efforts, as it is a sacred place for them.
The Definition of the Bohra Community
The Bohra are a Shia Ismaili religious sect whose historical origins trace back to the Fatimid Caliphate in Egypt. They separated following a dispute over the imamate after the death of Caliph al-Mustansir Billah.
The community settled primarily in India and Yemen after the center of their missionary work moved from Egypt.
The word "Bohra" is of Hindi origin and means "merchant," and they were named so because of their significant efforts and involvement in trade.
They believe the pillars of Islam are seven, not five, with the most prominent being Wilayah (divine authority) and Taharah (purity).
They are known for their keen interest in trade, charitable work, and the restoration of historical mosques associated with the Ahl al-Bayt (the Prophet's family).
The Bohra community is divided into several main groups, most notably
The Dawoodi Bohra
The Sulaimani Bohra
The Alawi Bohra
The Current Development Projects
The mosque has undergone comprehensive modern development and restoration to return it to its original splendor as a mosque and major tourist attraction.
The President of the Republic and Sultan Bora Dawood Taifuddin (Sultan of the Bohra community in India) inaugurated the Al-Hakim Mosque in Cairo on February 23, 2023, following the completion of comprehensive restoration and development work carried out by the Ministry of Tourism and Antiquities in cooperation with the Bohra community.
